Falling Leaves baby quilts

For Sophie, October 2007
R felt that her first baby was "orange."  We picked out the fabric together at JoAnn's.
For the orange leaves, I used fat quarters. I think I bought 12 or so and only used half of them. Some of the blue trim fabric was later used to make her baby brother a kimono shirt.
The quilt measured about 3 x 4 feet.
I like how it turned out - like gorgeous leaves falling on a blue, sunny day.

Top of quilt
Up close of quilt squares
Back of quilt
I machine quilted along where the veins of the leaves would be.
On the back it looks like lots of chicken feet!


Posted by Picasa

Apron Tutorial

Materials:
1 yd fabric (2 yards if making reversible) for adult size, 3/4 yd for children’s size
1” grosgrain ribbon, 3 yds adult, 1.5 yards children’s
Thread
Optional :
1” d rings
Hook & loop fastener, one piece design, ½ yard
Dritz Fray Check for Ribbon (optional)

Pattern: 
Ribbon for waist ties and neck strap: (Adult)3x 27”, (Child) 3x 23”
Ribbon for bib loop:  Adult) 1 x 7”, (Child) 1 x 3”
Glossary:
Top Stich – stitch around outside of piece as close to pressed edge as possible (1/16 to 1/8”), on right side of fabric.

Steps
1.      1.  Cut out pieces according to pattern.
2.     2.   If making own bib loop, fold ribbon in half and sew down the long edge.  You now have ½” wide ribbon.  The following pictures show you how to make a fabric loop.  Cut a piece of fabric 7" by 1" wide. 
      Step A: fold in half lengthwise and iron.


 Step B.  Fold long sides in to meet middle crease.
      Step C. Fold fabric again along long side.  Sew down long edge.  You should only have raw fabric edges on the short sides. 


3.      3.  Lay apron bibs right side together with strap and loop (put D rings on loop now, if you are using them) facing down, between the fabric layers.  The fabric pieces are only offset so you can see the layers.  Sides and top should match evenly.
4.       4. Sew with a 3/8" or ½” seam along left, top and right sides.  I go over the straps a couple of times to reinforce them.
      
5.       5. Clip corners.
6.      6.  Turn right side out and iron.
7.       7. Top stitch bib piece on left, top and right sides.                       (Upside down, Up close)
8.       8. Find the center of the bib and the two apron ties by folding them in half and marking the fold.

 
9.      9. Make a sandwich of the an apron tie right side up, apron bib (either side up), apron tie wrong side up. 
     10. Match the center marks on each.
11. This I actually pin to make sure the centered stay aligned while I sew.  Sew a 3/8" or 1/2” seam down the right side and across the bottom of the bib.
      
     12.   Press the seam reversed so your apron now looks like an apron with no skirt .
     13.   Press the bottom of the back apron tie up 3/8 to  ½”. (We’ll revisit this later.)     

1   14.   Sew two parallel lines at a basting length 1/8 and 3/8” from the top of your skirt piece(s).  (Reversible aprons have two skirts.)
     15.  If you’re making a reversible apron, sew the left, bottom and right sides of the apron skirts (wrong sides) together.  Leave the top open. 
     16.   Press the ends of the apron ties to the inside 3/8 to ½” on each end.
      17.   Gather the skirt(s) to match the length of your apron tie pieces.
a.       Approximate lengths: 15 -18” for child’s size and 26-29” for adult.
      18.   For single apron skirt, press sides in ~1/4” to reverse, press ¼” again to the reverse.  Hem sides with a 1/8-1/4” seam.
      18.   Pin Apron skirt(s) to FRONT apron tie (you did not press under the bottom of the front.)
a.        I like to line the skirt top up with the top basting thread to make sure that the gathering seams are enclosed in the seam allowance later.
      19.   Sew apron front tie and skirt piece(s), right sides together with a 3/8” seam.
      20.   Pin ribbon ties to fabric tie pieces at the turned under ends. 
      21.   Top stitch all sides of the fabric tie, catching the ribbon on the edges.

      22.   If making double sided apron, top stitch reversible skirt. 
      23.   For single layer skirt, press up ¼” on reverse side, then press up 1” again to the reverse.  Stitch hem at ¾” from pressed edge. 
     24.   Turn under and press ends of ribbon at neck and sides; Stitch.  OR Treat ends of ribbons with Fray Check. 
     25.   For Child’s apron, you can sew about 10-12” of hook & hoop fastener at the end of the neck ribbon, encasing the end of the fastener in the ribbon, to make the neck strap adjustable. 
     26.   You’re done!  Happy Cooking.

Adjustable Waistband Tutorial


Materials:
pants / skirt pattern
Fabric for waistband

Interfacing scraps (need 2 of 1" x 2" rectangles)

3/4" buttonhole elastic, ½ -1 yard

¾" waistband elastic, ½ - 1 yd

2 Buttons


 






Steps:

  1. Double height of waistband if it will be a single layer.
  2. Fold waistband in half, matching top to bottom with right sides showing.
  3. Sew waistband to pants / skirt according to patter directions, but with double thickness.
    a.  If your waistband has a center back seam, sew the seam allowances down. This will make it easier to pass the elastic through later. (The right side is sewed down, the left side is not.)





  4. Mark center hips with a vertical line on the top half of the waistband. Mark the center fold (from top to bottom) of the waistband with a pin or horizontal line so you know where to stop sewing the button holes.


    Markings up close





















  5. Place scraps of interfacing centered over marks; pin ¼" above ½ height mark.  Interfacing is just to the left of the mark so you can see the mark. (Image is sideways for some reason).                                   Left side









    Top
























    Right side


  6. Sew buttonholes on top half of inside of waistband. It should now look like this.


  7. Measure child's waist. Divide in half-1". Cut length of ¾" waistband elastic.

  8. Fold elastic ½" under each raw end. Sew ends to the front of the waistband, anchoring just in front of each buttonhole. (I use a straight stitch, then a couple passes of zigzag. )
    Up close image



    1. Turn waistband to inside, enclosing waistband and pants seam. Pin and sew all they away around the waistband around where the top of waistband meets the bottom. (Do Not sew bottom of front elastic into seam! It needs to be able to move.)  Stretch the front where the elastic is as you sew.


    2.  Open button holes from #6 with ripper.

    3. Take child's waist measurement, divide in half. Add 6-7 inches (maybe 10" for adult? This could be helpful in maternity pants.). Cut 3/4" buttonhole elastic to this length.  You can always trim the elastic if it's too long later, but it is hard to add more!
      1. Fold end of buttonhole elastic under ½". Straight stitch or zigzag stitch each end. 
      2. Use a safety pin to guide elastic through back half of waistband.


      3. Sew buttons onto hips, in front of buttonholes.

        Now your child's pants won't fall off! Plus these pants fit disposable AND cloth diapers. Of course, by the time these were finished he'd finished toilet training.